To hang an artwork recently acquired on a trip to China, I set out on a mission to frame it. I could buy a frame with the artwork for a small fee, but couldn't carry something big and fragile on an airplane. There were no stock frames of the right size anywhere online either.
A few quick calls to local framing stores revealed a well-known fact - framing would cost way more than the artwork itself. Yet IKEA was generously offering a large stock Ribba frame for only CAD 30. Could I resize the frame to suit my needs? I tried implementing the idea. After all, if successful, I could save over a hundred dollars.
Needed two L's
How a rectangular frame, split up in two L's, rejoins into a resized frame.
I wanted the project to be as simple as possible. That meant using little time, effort and materials to finish. The key design was to split the frame in half, creating two L's, keeping two joints intact and minimizing the number of joints I had to make later.
To determine how much of the frame to cut off, I subtracted the artwork size with the size the frame was designed for. In my case, the artwork was 65cm x 65cm while the size of the frame was 70cm x 100cm. Thus I needed to remove 5cm on the short side and 35cm on the long side. It didn't matter what the actual lengths on the frame were.
I marked the cutting lines with a knife.
It was helpful to have a template to check the size of the frame in each step of the project. I simply laid the artwork on top of the labelling paper that came with the frame, then traced its outline with a knife.
Not reassured that my measurements on the artwork were correct, I distinguished the orientation of the frame. That way the artwork will fit even if my measurements were wrong.
To make a nice, clean edge, the joints had to meet at 45° angles. A mitre saw will make this task tremendously easier, but I didn't have one. I tried my luck with a jigsaw instead.
First, I needed a couple of mini triangular set squares, made using a cardboard mat that came with the frame.
I marked unused portions of the frames with X's to prevent mix ups later on.
This anchor was placed too close to the edge where I will be cutting. Like a bad tooth, I had it removed.
Joining back together
After cutting (with much difficulty) with a jigsaw, I put the two L's together.
The joints didn't line up perfectly, but it was acceptable. I held them together temporarily with masking tape...
Notice the very pronounced gaps. With proper cutting tools - and experience - the size of the gap could be minimized. I was lucky that the gaps were visible only on the back.
To fill the hole with as much glue as possible, I used a syringe, found in an inkjet cartridge refill kit, and filled it with glue. The glue was so thick it barely trickled into the syringe when I tried to fill it through the needle...
It was easier to pour it in from the top.
The gaps were filled to the brim with glue. It's important to make sure that the masking tape used to restrict the flow of glue be adhering to the frame as tightly as possible. I found that the glue, despite its high viscosity, managed to ooze in between the tape and the frame.
When dried, the gap reappeared again, but by then the glue had bonded the joint together.
Backing board
Next up, I prepared the backing. First, I sized it up with the artwork.
I removed the stabilizers as they were not position properly.
Using a triangular set square, I drew perfect right angles.
I marked the lines using a knife and ruler.
No band saw? No problem.
The "stabilizers" - L joints that improve the frame's rigidity by connecting the backing board to the frame - were stamped into the backs using sophisticated tools. It not only formed a four-point nail as it was stamped into the board, but it also pointed outwards as it went further into the board. The result was a grip so firm, it was impossible to remove them without destroying the board.
To reuse them, I straightened the points, then clamped them down manually with a pair of wrench pliers - one side at a time.
As the points punched through the board, they popped out on the other side.
I stamped in only three stabilizers (I didn't know where I had put the fourth). It was more important to bond with the bottom edge as it carried the weight of a piece of glass. You can see them in the picture below - one at the bottom, two on the sides, where the hanging wire ends on each side.
I used clips and wire that came with the frame.
I predrilled holes on the frame to allow the stabilizers to anchor into the frame with screws. The frame may have been predrilled properly before I modified the frame. I found it impossible to screw in otherwise.
Finalizing the frame
There was still some work left in the frame. First, I needed to cover up any imperfections with good, old-fashioned paint.
I got a "flat" paint, but the original paint on the frame turned out to be glossier.
The glue may be solid, but it may not be strong enough to carry the weight of a large piece of glass. I added extra support.
I predrilled holes, stuck in a few nails (leftovers from other IKEA products no less)...
Stuck the artwork and backing in...
Then joined the nails using leftover wires.
Notice the crack around the top nail in the picture below. I originally hammered the nail in, but the frame cracked halfway through. It's important to predrill and work delicately on this piece of IKEA "wood"...
As the final step, I covered the makeshift anchors with cardboard paper from the mat to prevent the nails from scratching the wall once I hang the frame.
Voila! It's done, and joins a group of pictures yet to be hung.